A surfer riding the barrel of the wave in Teahupo'o

The perfect wave

How Tahiti's location and seafloor help create one of the world's best spots to surf.

While most 2024 Olympians will be battling for glory in Paris, the world's best surfers will be going for gold 16,000km away on Tahiti, where the spinning blue barrels of Teahupo'o might be the real star of the show.

A potent mix of beauty and brutality, Teahupo’o has been the venue for many of surfing’s most exciting contests and some of the sport’s seminal moments since it was revealed to the wider world in the 1990s.

Teahupo'o, which loosely translates as “Pile of Heads” or “Wall of Skulls” after a gruesome local legend, was picked to stage the Olympic competition because the beaches in France are mostly flat this time of year.

Huge winter storms in the South Pacific near New Zealand generate swells of up to 15m that travel thousands of kilometres before lurching out of the deep onto a shallow reef at “The End of the Road”, as Teahupo’o is also known.

A map showing a string of islands in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, with the island of Tahiti at the far right and the town of Teahupo’o on the southern edge of Tahiti.

A large trench carved by fresh water running off the jungle-clad mountains provides an incredibly close and relatively safe spot for spectator boats.

While the biggest waves rise some 10m and are not as tall as those in Portugal's Nazare or Hawaii's Peahi, the explosive power, giant tubes and sheer volume of water set Teahupo'o apart as a hydrodynamic freak of nature.

A video showing how the mountainous interior of Tahiti catches rainwater and creates rivers to the ocean. One river funnels water down through the town of Teahupo’o and has created a deep channel in the reef off the coast of the island. This channel, combined with the way the reef shelf has evolved over many thousands of years, creates a wave that is such a powerful moving wall of water that it was thought to be unsurfable until the 80’s. The undersea geography combines to create a huge wall of water that barrels over at the last minute to create what many consider to be the heaviest wave in the world.
A video showing how the mountainous interior of Tahiti catches rainwater and creates rivers to the ocean.   One river funnels water down through the town of Teahupo’o and has created a deep channel in the reef off the coast of the island. This channel, combined with the way the reef shelf has evolved over many thousands of years, creates a wave that is such a powerful  moving wall of water that it was thought to be unsurfable until the 80’s.  The undersea geography combines to create a huge wall of water that barrels over at the last minute to create what many consider to be the heaviest wave in the world.

While Italo Ferreira and Carissa Moore carved and spun their way to gold in the murky, typhoon-churned waves of Japan's Shidashita beach for surfing’s debut at the Tokyo Olympics, Teahupo'o breaks perfectly over a coral reef and is renowned for its heavy, hollow tubes.

“It's a totally different wave,” said Lucca Mesinas, who represented Peru in Tokyo and has also qualified for Paris 2024.

Waves change as they near land

Waves travel across oceans easily and become surfable only when they near shore and crash. But the shape they take is in large part a reflection of the seafloor underneath.

A graphic showing cross sections of three waves and how the seafloor helps to create the shape of the waves as they break.:end

“Japan was a beach break and a lot of wind. It was a really hard wave to surf. And Tahiti is just an amazing island with a perfect lefthander.”

“It usually is barrelling, so it's a super nice wave. It can be really big too, and it can be really strong.”

A video annotating Tahitian local Vahine Fierro as she drops into a double overhead wave during a recent competition. Surfers will get up to 35kph (20 mph) on a wave in Teahupo’o and points at this location are given for being deep inside a barrel which raises the chance the wave will close out on top of them.
A video annotating Tahitian local Vahine Fierro as she drops into a double overhead wave during a recent competition.  Surfers will get up to 35kph (20 mph) on a wave in Teahupo’o and points at this location are given for being deep inside a barrel which raises the chance the wave will close out on top of them.
Video courtesy World Surf League

“Hosting the Olympics at Teahupo'o is the best spot they could ever pick just because it's such a good wave at that time of the year,” said local Vahine Fierro, who won the world professional tour’s Tahiti Pro in pumping waves in May.

“It’s hard to describe - you need to live it to feel what I am talking about. But paddling into a wave as hard as you can, not knowing if you’re going to make the drop or not because it is so hollow, getting into this big blue tube that just feels like time is stopping, and then coming out with the spit of the wave in your back, into the boats that are right there - it’s just indescribable and the best feeling in the world.”

a series of photographs showing surfers at different aspects of the surfing process, the takeoff, being deep in the barrel, and wiping out.

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The Olympics surfing competition will take place at Teahupo’o from July 27-August 5. The schedule includes potential lay-days for when conditions are unsuitable with poor winds or if the waves are too small … or too big. A total of 48 surfers (24 men and 24 women) from 21 countries will be competing, with traditional surfing powerhouses the United States, Australia and Brazil likely to be among the medals. Host nation France will also be a strong contender with two local Tahitians in their team of four.

Sources

French Hydrographic Office (SHOM); Satellite image ©2024 Maxar Technologies, Surfing video courtesy World Surf League; Reuters reporting

All photos by

Thomas Bevilacqua / REUTERS

Additional development by

Sudev Kiyada

Edited by

Julia Wolfe and Tom Hogue